“For first-time homebuyers, that’s probably the largest portion of my business. The biggest part is starting with the loan application, because even if you’re just looking for information on your payment or how to qualify, you need to get your financials in and have your credit checked. That credit check is crucial so we can see your overall debt liabilities compared to your monthly income. It’s a key piece in determining where you stand and what you can afford.”

“I really enjoy seeing first-time homebuyers begin the process of creating and building wealth. Owning a home can be huge for them, and I understand the nerves that come with such a big step. When they trust the process and close on a place of their own, it’s exciting to watch them realize how powerful homeownership can be.”

“Common mistakes include moving money between different accounts without understanding they have to show where the money came from, or making regular payments—like fifty dollars a month to a family member—without disclosing it. Another is opening new credit lines, even at 0% interest. Underwriters need to see all transactions and debts. I explain these requirements up front so they understand why we ask for every piece of documentation.”

“Yes, I’ve had borrowers who qualified for a program that required all financials, tax returns, and business documentation, but they decided to go with a loan that needed only bank statements and less paperwork. Even though one program might be more advantageous financially, some people just prefer an easier process. When that happens, I pivot and find the option they feel most comfortable with.”

“Rates move all the time, so just looking at the rate misses part of the picture. You’ve got to figure out what you want your payment to be. It’s also about how much or how little you put down, and how you structure the loan. It’s not just the rate; it’s the entire setup.”

“Sometimes choosing a higher rate can come with a lender credit that lowers your closing costs. Another scenario is if you’re in a higher tax bracket and might get more of a deduction from the mortgage interest. I’m not a CPA, but that’s something people consider. The point is, you have options in how you structure the rate and costs.”

“I tell them that if they’re renting, they’re already paying a mortgage—just not their own. Their effective rate is 100% because they get no benefit from that monthly payment. As a homeowner, you can take advantage of possible tax benefits and do whatever you want with your own place. You’re building equity instead of throwing money away.”

“I look at how long someone plans to stay in the area and what their future plans are. If it’s a short-term thing, maybe it doesn’t make sense to buy. But if they’re going to be around for a while, they can take advantage of appreciation, which around here has historically been anywhere from 3% to 6% a year.”

“If someone is struggling to make their monthly payments right now, then it might not be the time. However, you can sometimes bring in a family member or find other creative ways to afford a house. But if you really can’t, then devise a plan, budget, and work toward it. Eventually, if you want it bad enough, you’ll find a way.”

“There are many programs, including down payment assistance, where you can buy a home with little or even no out-of-pocket money. The seller can sometimes pay your closing costs. Meanwhile, the alternative is renting, where you pay first and last month’s rent plus a security deposit and get none of it back. I show them how the numbers work so they see the bigger picture and can decide what’s best.”

“When you rent, any amount you pay—say $2,500 to $3,000 a month—is gone forever. You don’t build any equity or get any appreciation. In contrast, owning a home helps you grow net worth over time because you benefit from both paying down principal and the property appreciating in value. You also have the freedom to fix or customize your own place.”

“With higher rates, the competition is lower, so there’s less pressure and you might get a better deal. You can have more time to decide, and sellers are often more willing to pay closing costs or negotiate. Even if you start with a higher rate, you can refinance later if rates drop. Meanwhile, you’ve already locked in your property and started building equity.”

“I like showing them basic math so they realize a small rate change might only shift the monthly payment by about $60. I break it down to something like $8 a month per $100,000 for every eighth of a percent. Once they see it in simple terms, it’s less intimidating and they can make decisions based on the bigger picture rather than just the interest rate.”

“I’ve been doing this for more than twenty years, and I rely on that experience to reassure them. I tell them, ‘I’ve got you.’ I guide them step by step and let them know we won’t let them fail. Having a strong, experienced team also backs that up, so they feel confident throughout the process.”

“I look at how the local market is appreciating—around 3% to 6% in the Puget Sound area—and I watch how interest rates and inventory levels are affecting buyer competition. I share these insights so they understand if it’s a good time to jump in or if they need a different plan. My main goal is explaining how these trends can benefit them in the long run.”

“A soft pull shows an inquiry on your credit report but doesn’t really affect your credit score the same way. A hard pull is the full inquiry, typically done when you’re really applying for the loan and need the lender to review your entire credit profile. Most pre-approvals need that hard pull.”

“Yes, these programs can come in and take care of the down payment, letting you buy a home without using your own money for that. Plus, if you negotiate with the seller to pay closing costs, you could potentially move in with almost nothing out of your own pocket.”

“You might be paying $2,500 or $3,000 a month in rent, which adds up to $36,000 a year that you’ll never see again. When you own, you’re not just paying a mortgage—you’re gaining equity and you’re likely seeing appreciation. Over time, homeowners often build significantly more wealth than if they’d stayed renters.”

“Yes, you can buy a duplex, live in one side, and rent out the other side. That rent can often cover a large part of your mortgage. It’s like playing Monopoly on steroids: you own the entire building, and someone else is helping you pay for it.”

“It’s 100% financing, so no down payment. You can negotiate for the seller to pay your closing costs. That means you can get in with no money out of your own pocket. It applies to single-family homes all the way up to fourplexes, and there’s no loan limit if you meet the debt-to-income requirements. It’s just the best loan out there for those who can use it.”

“People often assume they need 20%, but if you’re a first-time buyer with a decent income, you can do as little as 5% down. Being in tech often means you have the funds to qualify, but you definitely don’t need to wait until you have 20%. We structure it so it makes sense for your situation.”

“There are programs for self-employed borrowers where we use your bank statements instead of tax returns. Sometimes you can put as little as 10% down. For doctors, we have what’s known as a doctor loan that recognizes you might have large student loan debt. It often allows for a small down payment and a more flexible look at those student debts.”

“Sometimes the difference between 10% down and 5% down might only change your monthly payment by around $200, which could free up thousands of dollars you could invest elsewhere. Your house is still likely to appreciate, so it’s worth comparing how your money can work for you before just putting 20% down.”

“Often people save for years, only to realize that if they had bought earlier, they would’ve gained equity plus still had time to save money. Once you own, you’re building wealth each month by paying down principal. It’s better to get in the game, then optimize as you go.”

“When you apply for a home loan, the lender needs to see your entire credit profile and your financials. Even if you’re just curious about how much you qualify for or what your monthly payment might be, we still need to pull your credit and check your debt obligations compared to your monthly income. That’s the only way we can accurately figure out your potential loan amount and payment.”

“A soft pull shows an inquiry on your credit report but doesn’t really affect your credit score the same way. A hard pull is what typically happens when you go in for an actual loan application and need full underwriting. Most of the time, a hard pull is needed for a solid pre-approval because lenders have to see a detailed snapshot of your credit history.”

“Any time you move money around—like from one bank account to another—the underwriter wants to see exactly where it came from. If it’s not documented, they might wonder if you have undisclosed debt or if the funds are borrowed. That’s why I advise first-time buyers to keep it simple and be ready to show statements for every account.”

“Yes. Even if you’re paying fifty dollars a month to a relative, it’s still considered a debt obligation. The underwriter is looking at all monthly liabilities you have. It’s not about prying; it’s about making sure we have a complete and honest picture of your finances.”

“I’ve worked with borrowers who qualified for certain programs that asked for detailed tax returns and business statements, but they chose a ‘bank statement’ loan instead because it was less hassle. If people prefer fewer documents, I pivot to that option even if it might not be the top financial choice. It’s important they feel comfortable with the process.”

“Rates fluctuate constantly, and focusing only on the day’s rate can distract from the bigger picture. I like to work backwards from the monthly payment you’re comfortable with, then figure out how much you’re putting down and how you want the loan structured. That’s more important than obsessing over the interest rate, which might change tomorrow anyway.”

“Sometimes buyers pick a higher rate—like going from 7% to 7.25%—so they can receive a lender credit and pay less in closing costs. Another angle is if they’re in a higher tax bracket and might benefit from a larger mortgage interest deduction. I’m not a CPA, but that’s something some borrowers consider.”

“If you’re renting, your entire monthly payment goes to someone else’s mortgage, not yours. You don’t build any equity or gain any tax benefits. So when you add it all up at the end of the year, that money is just gone. I like to tell people that’s effectively a 100% interest rate.”

“You might be paying $2,500 to $3,000 a month in rent, which adds up to $30,000 or $36,000 a year with nothing coming back to you. With a mortgage, your monthly payment helps build equity, and the property can appreciate in value over time, so you’re not just giving your money away. You’re actually growing your net worth.”

“Yes. You can actually use down payment assistance to buy a multi-unit property like a duplex. You live in one side and rent out the other. That rental income can offset a chunk of your mortgage, so you can end up paying a lot less than you would if you were renting somewhere else. It’s a great ‘Monopoly on steroids’ kind of approach.”

“With a VA loan, you can do 100% financing, meaning no down payment. You can also ask the seller to pay your closing costs, so you could move in with no money out of your own pocket. That benefit extends to single-family homes up to fourplexes, and there’s no loan limit as long as you qualify on the debt-to-income ratio. It’s hands down the best loan if you can use it.”

“A lot of tech professionals are first-time buyers who have steady income, but that doesn’t mean they need 20% down. You can buy with as little as 5% down in many cases. I explain that the idea of needing 20% is outdated. If you have good credit and stable income, there are plenty of programs designed for lower down payments.”

“FHA tends to have more flexible debt-to-income requirements and may allow for a lower credit score or a smaller down payment. Conventional loans might be more rigid in that sense. It really comes down to what fits the buyer’s financial profile best.”

“I offer bank statement programs for self-employed folks where I don’t need full tax returns. If you can show deposits and consistent cash flow in your statements, you can qualify. Traditional banks often decline these borrowers because they don’t fit that standard mold, but this type of loan is designed exactly for them.”

“A doctor loan is great for people just out of residency who have big student loan balances. You can sometimes put as little as 3% or 10% down and still qualify, because we recognize doctors have high earning potential and a lot of specialized debt. Some places do them better than others, but I’ve helped save deals where a major bank took too long or was too rigid in their requirements.”

“There’s a newer down payment assistance option if your family was in Washington prior to 1968, during a time when discrimination was legal. This program can give up to 20% for your down payment if you qualify. It involves extra steps, but it’s meant to help address that historical inequity for families who couldn’t buy homes back then.”

“I show them how a small rate increase or a slight jump in loan amount might only be $50 or $60 more a month. Then I ask, ‘Are you willing to miss out on a house that meets 80–90% of your wants just for $60?’ Once they see the math, it often helps them decide if it’s worth that minor bump.”

“If you put less down, you can keep that extra cash in another investment or in savings for emergencies. The difference in monthly payment might only be a couple hundred dollars, but now you have thousands left to work for you in other ways. It’s about leveraging what the bank is willing to lend you and not tying up all your funds in the down payment.”

“Sometimes people save $30,000 or $60,000 over a few years, but during that time, property values have gone up even more. I explain that if they had bought earlier, they’d likely have equity plus the money they were saving. My advice is don’t wait for the perfect savings number—get in the game when you can and keep building from there.”

“If you’ve got plenty of liquid assets left after putting 20% down and the payment feels right, go for it. But a lot of first-time buyers think they need that 20% to avoid mortgage insurance. There are loan structures that can remove or reduce that insurance cost even with 5% or 10% down. It’s always worth exploring different options before committing to a bigger down payment.”

“Let’s say you’re at $3,000 a month, but the house that hits 90% of your wish list makes the payment $3,060. That extra $60 can scare people away. I show them that if the property appreciates by a normal rate, that $60 is nothing compared to the equity they’ll build. So I walk through the math so they can see it’s not worth missing out on the house over such a small gap.”

“I always encourage having some savings, but if you wait three years to buy, you’re likely missing out on three years of potential appreciation, plus three years of principal paydown. By the time you’ve saved more money, the house prices might have gone up. Sometimes it’s better to jump in earlier, let the house start working for you, and then build your savings alongside homeownership.”

“That depends on the individual. Some people like to own the home free and clear. Others see the house as an appreciating asset and prefer keeping their money accessible. If the bank offers low down payment options, they might do that and invest the rest elsewhere. I generally suggest looking at it as leverage—use the bank’s money and keep your cash for other opportunities.”

“Because I’ve been doing this for more than twenty years, and I know where the bumps in the road can happen. I tell them, ‘I’ve got you from start to finish.’ Once they see that we’ll handle the details—like collecting financial documents, guiding them on credit, and working with the underwriter—most people feel a lot less anxious. Trusting the process means letting the experts do what they do best.”

“My biggest thing is: just take the first step. Get in the game. If you keep renting, you’re paying someone else’s mortgage. If you buy, even with a higher rate, you’re building your own wealth. You can refinance later or adjust as you go, but you can’t make up for the time spent not owning. Start now, and watch how it pays off down the road.”